Reverse Sneezing In Dogs

Reverse Sneezing In Dogs

What does it mean? What causes it?  Can it be treated?

       Reverse sneezing- Formally known as a laryngospasm, a reverse sneeze often sounds as if a dog is struggling to draw in air.

It is termed “reverse sneeze” because the dog is inhaling air rapidly and forcefully instead of expelling air, as with a normal sneeze. Smaller breeds are more prone to reverse sneezing and may have several episodes a day.

The good news is that your dog isn’t dying, not even close. That loud snorting sound, which can go on for a few minutes, is most likely is caused by irritation to the throat, pharynx or laryngeal area. This can be from excitement, pulling on the leash, inhalant irritants (pollen, strong odors), respiratory infections, post nasal drip, or for some dogs, sudden changes in temperature — i.e. leaving a warm house to very cold outdoor temperatures.

To help end the attack, stroke your dog’s throat to encourage him to swallow or very briefly place your hand over his nostrils.

Seperation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation Anxiety

Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner(s).

In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly.

Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety. There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

– Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

– A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick. –

Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog.

– Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving.

When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing.

Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop.

I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts:


– Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

– Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.

– When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.

– If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it.

– Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her.

Do not:

– Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Trainingsite by clicking on the link below:

Why Dogs Eat Poop?! How To Stop It

Why do dogs eat poop? Plus, tips on how to stop it!

Dogs, unfortunately, commonly eat their own feces, or another dog’s poop; it’s a very disturbing and frustrating behavioral problem for pet owners. The veterinary term for this is called coprophagia, and you may find some comfort in knowing that this is quite normal. This article will give you an understanding about why dogs eat feces, along with what you can do at home to stop it.

Feces eating (coprophagia) is common in other animals such as rabbits, rodents, pigs, horses and even primates. This behavior is considered to be a problem in dogs, especially as our dogs now are so close with us, licking our faces. Puppies regularly eat poop. They like to chew and eat anything. The problem is if this becomes an established habit. In some dogs this is secondary to a nutritional deficiency.

Some dogs will benefit from a diet change. I suggest first trying a quality premium food. If your pet is already eating one, then switch to one of the natural diets such as Innova or California Natural. You can also use some of the sample At Home dog diets, or try feeding some Raw Food. It is believed that a diet rich in fat, protein, and fiber and low in carbohydrates may cut the tendency.

Altering the flavor can help. Your dog will stop eating feces if it tastes bad (although you would think that it already tastes bad). Stool in the back yard or in your cat’s litter box can be spiced with Tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper.

There are a few things that you can add to your dogs food to alter the taste of their feces. Meat tenderizers can be added to your dog’s food; this will help with digestion and make his stool taste horrible. The dose is 1/4 teaspoon per 10 lbs of body weight. Another option is to buy a product from your local veterinarian called For-Bid. It gives waste a taste that your pet will hate.

Many dog owner have found that by supplement the diet, the coprophagia then stops. Add a vitamin and mineral supplement to your pet’s diet, as some dogs eat stool who are nutrient deficient. There are several types; talk to your veterinarian to see what he or she recommends.

Lastly one study showed that using a citronella spray collar effectively worked for dogs that persisted in eating dog feces. A citronella spray collar reduced the frequency of coprophagia in dogs and that this effect persists after treatment has ceased. This requires you as the pet owner to be watching, and involved, triggering the spray in response to feces eating.

So, to sum it all up- Try changing your dog’s food to one which is higher in fat, protein, and fiber and low in carbohydrates. Consider supplementing with a complete, quality dog supplement. Then look at adding something to make the feces more adverse tasting, or a citronella spray collar to alter this unwanted behavior.

P.S. If your dog tends to eat unknown animals feces, I’d highly recommend getting a good dewormer from your vet. (this is separate from your monthly heartworm prevention)


My Dog Was Hit By A Car! What Should I Do?? Plus- Pet First Aid Kits

What to do if Your Pet is Hit By a Car, and What to Put in a Pet First Aid Kit.
by Dr. Andrew Jones, DVM


As a pet owner, one of my worst fears is having my dog or cat hit by a car. In the Vet world, we call this HBC.


You may see it, and then it’s obvious. Often though, cats and dogs are HBC’s (Hit By Cars) and the only external signs are a few scrapes. They may be limping, or have difficulty breathing.



         1.    CALL YOUR VET ASAP

         2.    ASSESS BREATHING.

Lung injuries are often seen from car accidents. Does your pet                             appear to be breathing normally or is she labored? (Breathing                             with her  mouth open) A common injury is pneumothorax, in                               which a part of the lung collapses causing progressive                                               respiratory distress. “Mouth breathing” meaning- large, deep,                             chest or stomach movements in an attempt to get air into the                               lungs). In this case, you need IMMEDIATE  veterinary care

         3.    CHECK HEARTBEAT.

The easiest way is to place your ear against the chest behind                                  the left elbow. You can also feel for a pulse by placing your                                    fingers in the groin (inside the thigh of the back legs)

         4.    CPR

If your pet is non-responsive, then go through the CPR steps.

1. Assess responsiveness

2. Establish a patent airway

3. Perform rescue breathing

4. Cardiac massage – establishing circulation


You will have to exert a lot of force with large dogs, but don’t                                worry about breaking ribs for they will heal.

After every minute, stop and check for a pulse or breathing.

Continue heart massage compressions and the rescue                                               breathing until you hear a heartbeat and feel regular                                                 breathing. ONCE your pet is breathing and his heart is                                             beating, CALL your veterinarian immediately

           5.    GUM COLOR.

This is a great measure of blood pressure, to determine if                                       shock is present, and to evaluate for internal bleeding. The                                   gums should be a healthy pink color. If they are pale, then                                     your pet needs to be treated for shock and transported to a                                   vet ASAP

           6.    STOP BLEEDING.

If there are obvious areas of bleeding, then stop them NOW.                               Apply direct pressure with a clean cloth or gauze. Hold this in                               place for at least 5 minutes

           7.    COVER WOUNDS.

Covering open wounds will keep them clean and help prevent                               infection. Bandage material is preferable, but a towel will                                       work fine until you get to the vet

           8.    SUPPORT A FRACTURE.

If your pet is not using a leg, suspect a fracture. If the leg is                                    dangling, and bent at an unusual angle, then you should                                          attempt to immobilize it until you get veterinary care. Place a                              towel around the leg. Wrap the inside of the leg with material                                to partially splint the limb:  newspaper, magazine or even                                        bubble wrap. Cover this with tape to keep the newspaper next                              to the towel

           9.    MOVE WITH CARE.

Carefully transport your pet. A firm surface works best. If                                     possible, put your pet on a wooden board. This is best done                                   by first gently sliding him onto a sheet, then sliding the sheet                                 onto the board. If you don’t have any of this available, don’t                                 worry, the most important thing is rapid transport to your                                     vet. Lift your pet by cradling him (left arm around his chest                                   and right arm around his rear).


Every pet owner should have a Pet First Aid Kit.

Here are some basic items that all first aid kits should contain.

  • Rectal Thermometer – the newer electronic kind works best. The electronic ones beep when they are finished registering a temperature. They are slightly smaller than the glass kind. They do not break as easily. They can be covered with thin sleeves to halt the spread of germs. They can also be used as oral thermometers. They do have a battery which will need replacing and they are more expensive then the glass ones. [normal canine temperature – 100.5 to 102.5F]
  • Lubricating jelly– To lubricate thermometer
  • Gel packs- that can be used for hot and cold compresses
  • Adhesive tape– to secure bandages – both non-stick tape and water proof tape
  • Blunt tipped scissors- (a must for animal first aid – used for cutting hair away from wounds)
  • Bandage scissors
  • Splints
  • Alcohol swabs- to sterilize instruments or small areas of skin
  • Antibiotic ointment for wounds– (not for eyes) (ie. Polysporin, for non puncture type wounds)
  • Contact lens solution– for rinsing eyes, to clean wounds (water can be substituted)
  • Cotton swabs– i.e. Q-tips
  • Hibitane – a mild antibacterial soap for cleaning skin, wounds
  • Sterile cotton or cotton balls
  • Sterile Gauze Pads- (the larger 4″ size is better since it can easily be cut smaller if necessary)
  • Rolls of gauze– or cling gauze bandage(1-2″)
  • Hydrogen Peroxide – 10 ml every 15 minutes to induce vomiting in animals that have ingested a non-caustic poison
  • Razor Blade– can also be used to shave away hair and abrade the skin following a tick bite.
  • Stockinet– to protect bandage on leg or foot
  • Rubber bulb ear syringe – used for flushing eyes, ears, wounds
  • Forceps and/or tweezers
  • Self-adhesive bandage–  i.e. VetWrap
  • Numbers for the Animal Poison Hotline & Poison Control for Pets– 800-548-2423 or 900-680-0000 (both numbers charge a fee). The National Poison Control Hotlines for humans should also be included. (No fee to call the human poison help line!)


In and of itself, healing your pet at home is easy.

Diagnosing the problem with your pet – as you become comfortable with the exam, then you get to know which area of your pet’s body is affected when they are sick.

The treatment: Every natural treatment option is in my book.

These things are simple.

These are the things I teach.

Why don’t you get Veterinary Secrets Revealed today and find out more about how it all works.

You can grab your copy by going to:


Remember that no one product is going to do everything for you and your pet. You’ll want to learn all the information you can — from e-books and courses.

Learning is a great investment.

Don’t read one book and expect to become an expert. It’s a process and a learning curve.

Keep learning.

Keep trying.

May our paths cross often.

It’s Your Pet- Heal Them At Home!

Best Wishes

Dr Andrew Jones


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Garbage Gut! Vomiting and Diarrhea in Dogs

Sick Dog Help-Home remedies, info, and tips for treating a sick dog at home for vomiting and diarrhea.

What to Do

  • Remove all food! It is recommended to fasting your pet for 24 hours if they have been vomiting or have diarrhea.
  • Check for signs of dehydration. It’s EXTREMELY important to make sure your pet continues to drink fluids! (water, Gatorade, or Pedialyte) A rule of thumb is to give fluids at 1 teaspoon per pound of body weight every 2 or 3 hours throughout the day and night.  If your pet does not vomit the fluid, the following day you can offer a bland diet of boiled chicken and plain rice (See below) If at any point they are refusing water continuously, you need to get them seen by a veterinarian!!
  • You can give PeptoBismol in the dosage of 1 teaspoon per 10lbs of body weight every 8 hours as needed to help with vomiting and/or diarrhea. For example if your pet weights 45lbs, you can give 4.5 teaspoons of regular over the counter Pepto. Note: You may notice your dogs stools are very dark (almost black) after giving Pepto Bismol. This isn’t uncommon or anything to worry about.
  • If the diarrhea and/or vomiting continues for more than 24 hours then it’s time to take them in to see the vet.
  • If no vomiting occurs for 24 hours, begin to offer small frequent meals of plain white or brown rice or plain, boiled chicken and rice. This is a very bland diet and is easier to tolerate if they’ve had an upset stomach. If your dog keeps this down over the next 6-8 hours, it should be fine to reintroduce their normal diet again.  If your pet does not want to eat, starts to vomit, or continues to have diarrhea, go to the veterinarian for medical care.
  • Isolate the sick pet from other pets.

What NOT to Do

  • Do not administer any over-the-counter or prescription medications to your pet without talking to a veterinarian first.
  • Do not allow the pet to eat until there has been no vomiting for 6 to 8 hours.

Vomiting and diarrhea are associated with a host of problems that are referred to collectively as gastroenteritis. Some cases are quite severe (e.g., poisoning), and some are not (e.g., dietary indiscretion). If fever is present, infection may be a cause. Most infections that cause diarrhea and vomiting are contagious, so it is wise to assume that other pets might be vulnerable if they are exposed.


Severe vomiting:   If your pet vomits repeatedly or forcefully, the vomiting is accompanied by diarrhea, or if the vomit has blood in it, looks and smells like feces, or contains what looks like coffee grounds (actually partially digested blood), it’s an emergency!                 

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